Why niacinamide is the most-needed ingredient in your skincare routine

But it's especially helpful for oily and combination skin types, explains Dr Anjali Mahto, as “niacinamide reduces sebum or oil production in the skin, which may indirectly help with the improvement of visible pore size. It can also be helpful in treating mild acne." Clinical facialist, Kate Kerr, concurs on this last point, adding that niacinamide "has antibacterial effects, which improve congestion and calm breakouts.”

Though not necessarily a spot treatment in the same way that salicylic acid zaps active pimples, the inclusion of a niacinamide serum will help to keep skin balanced in order to prevent breakouts in the first place. Put simply, it's a less aggressive approach to keeping skin on track.

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In fact, a study published in the International Journal of Dermatology found that 4% niacinamide, applied topically twice daily for eight weeks, significantly improved moderate acne.

"Niacinamide has been shown to strengthen the skin barrier function, making it especially beneficial for skin prone to dehydration," says Shabir. In practical terms what this means is that “niacinamide reduces water loss from the epidermis and increases lipids (ceramides) and proteins found in the skin barrier layer,” notes Dr Mahto, adding that a strong skin barrier keeps irritants and pollution out.

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According to scientists, niacinamide in skincare products may increase production of the co-enzyme nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate (NADP+), which is crucial for skin cell repair, renewal and to ensure they function at their optimum.

“Niacinamide increases cellular energy, improving cell turnover, microcirculation and antioxidant protection – all of this helps to slow skin ageing,” says Kate. Niacinamide is also required for collagen synthesis, explains Shabir, and since collagen is the essential building block for plump, youthful looking skin, that's good news for a fresh-looking complexion.

According to plastic surgeon and aesthetic doctor Dr Maryam Zamani, niacinamide is one of the most effective skincare ingredients to incorporate into your regime (after prescription formulas). "It will help to brighten the skin as well as reduce the production of melanin, which is what causes dark spots," she says.

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How do I use niacinamide in skincare?

Any skin type and age can benefit from using niacinamide in their skincare routine. Ideally you should use it twice a day, both morning and evening. For the most beneficial results, opt for serums and moisturisers that can be left on the skin for maximum absorption, unlike a cleanser that is immediately washed off.

“Niacinamide can be found in a varying range of concentrations in skincare and is usually well-tolerated causing minimal skin irritation," says Dr Mahto. "Ideally look for products that contain at least 5% niacinamide for the best results and ensure that it features highly on the ingredients’ list of a product (top three to five ingredients),” she adds. Sunday Riley's new B3 Nice, for example, is a 10% niacinamide serum.

Which ingredients can you combine with niacinamide?

The beauty of niacinamide is that it plays nicely with most ingredients and is particularly useful for offsetting the dryness and irritation that comes with gnarlier ingredients such as retinol.

Which is better - vitamin C or niacinamide?

Rather than view these ingredients as either/or, Dr Sturm recommends use niacinamide in tandem with vitamin C - “layering the two serums supercharges their brightening effects," she adds.

A key reason for doubling down with this combo is that, while both ingredients fall under the umbrella term ‘brightening’, they have different mechanisms for achieving a more even skin tone. Vitamin C inhibits the production of tyrosinase, an enzyme that is responsible for excess melanin, while niacinamide is thought to prevent the transfer of this pigment within cells.

Is niacinamide better than retinol?

When it comes to dramatically reducing fine lines and wrinkles, Dr Mahto cautions that niacinamide is “probably not the best choice.” For this retinol remains king as it's stronger and therefore better able to improve cell renewal and stimulate collagen production.

That said, pairing retinol with niacinamide makes the former easier to tolerate as niacinamide will improve moisture in the skin and temper irritation.

How long before I see results?

Depending on the severity of your skin concern, you should begin seeing results from your niacinamide serum after two to four weeks, with results improving over time.

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