You can arm yourself with all the blurring foundations, full coverage concealers and colour correcting primers in the world but when it comes to uneven skin tone, you need to get to the crux of the problem. Whether it’s a result of hyperpigmentation, sun spots, dry patches or redness triggered by acne or rosacea, ‘uneven skin tone’ is something of an umbrella term and each cause requires a different treatment plan.
From the triggers to the treatments, the wonder ingredients to what to avoid, we asked the experts how skin discolouration can be identified, dealt with and overcome once and for all.
Better to fake than to bake.
What is uneven skin tone?
Something you should know first off is that doctors and dermatologists don’t actually refer to skin as uneven. That’s just something the beauty industry coined. “Uneven skin tone is a catch-all term for skin that has some form of discolouration and can manifest as spots or patches of darker skin, dull skin, lighter skin or red skin,” explains Dr Jason Thomson, dermatologist and skin expert at Skin + Me. “There are many underlying causes of skin discolouration and in reality, dermatologists don’t tend to use the term ‘uneven skin tone’ as it’s vague and gives no indication of the underlying issue. It’s more a term used by the cosmetics industry so they can target products to address uneven skin tone.”
Regardless of whether you refer to it as skin discolouration or uneven, it essentially means that your skin has fluctuations in colouring and texture. “When there is an overproduction of melanin, certain areas of the skin may appear darker or lighter than usual. This overproduction can be caused by various factors such as sun exposure, hormonal changes, skin trauma, dry skin and conditions like melasma which is commonly seen in omen during or after pregnancy. All of these factors collectively contribute to an uneven complexion and texture of the skin,” says Dr Grace Hula, aesthetic doctor and founder of G&M Healthcare.
How can you tell if you have uneven skin tone?
The most tell-tale sign of uneven skin is spots or patches of skin that are darker than your natural skincare and they usually appear on the face, neck or hands – the places that are exposed to most sunlight. Other signs could include a general dullness of the complexion, lighter patches or red patches of skin.
“Hyperpigmentation is the most common cause but conditions that cause inflammation in the skin such as acne, eczema and rosacea can all result in redness in the skin which makes it appear uneven. To make it even more complicated, issues with the skin texture can contribute and dry, dehydrated skin affected by things like eczema can result in rough skin that reflects light differently to normal, smooth areas of skin resulting in the appearance of dullness,” says Dr Jason. As an added extra, acne scars, fine lines and blotchiness all fall under the uneven skin tone diagnosis too.
How do you fix uneven skin tone?
Paramount is working out what the underlying cause of your uneven skin tone is and for this it’s worth getting the experts involved. “It’s crucial to consult a skincare specialist to determine the most suitable products for your specific skin type and develop a personalised treatment plan,” advises Dr Grace.
That said, topical products, especially medical-grade skincare, can help reduce the appearance of uneven skin tone by inhibiting melanin production, exfoliating the skin to reveal fresher, brighter skin underneath and strengthening the skin barrier.
“Azelaic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), liquorice extract and kojic acid have all been shown in scientific studies to target melanin production to improve the appearance of hyperpigmentation. Retinoids can also inhibit melanin production but also increase cell turnover which helps accelerate pigment loss. Alpha Hydroxy Acids such as glycolic acid, lactic acid and mandelic acid can work to exfoliate the skin and increase skin cell turnover to help improve the appearance of hyperpigmentation and brighten the skin overall,” says Dr Jason. He also advocates prescription medicines such as a combination of tretinoin, hydroquinone and a topical steroid to treat melasma.
Can you treat uneven skin tone naturally?
Ingredients such as calendula oil, aloe vera, green tea and vitamin C can all help with promoting healthy skin and address uneven skin tone but unfortunately natural remedies won’t provide significant or long lasting results in comparison to professional treatments and targeted skincare.
Protecting the skin from sunlight and wearing a broad spectrum sunscreen (at least SPF50) should also be a must.
Are there any skin types more prone to uneven skin tone?
Although anyone can develop uneven skin tone, those with darker skin tones are more susceptible to hyperpigmentation. “Those of African, Asian or Hispanic descent have higher levels of melanin which is responsible for skin colouration. It’s important for individuals with darker skin tones to take extra precautions to protect their skin from sun exposure as ultraviolet (UV) rays can exacerbate existing pigmentation issues and contribute to the development of new ones,” says Dr Sabina Sinead Hanoman-Singh, aesthetic doctor at CREO Clinic.
Which treatments work on uneven skin tone?
Besides topical products, certain treatments such as lasers and LED therapy can help to combat hyperpigmentation. “They can be highly effective in achieving long-term results,” continues Dr Sabina. “LED therapy uses different wavelengths of light to penetrate the skin and stimulate cellular activity, regulate melanin production, reduce hyperpigmentation and promote a more even skin tone over time. LED treatments are generally safe, non-invasive and suitable for various skin types too.”
Another option would be IPL (Intense Pulsed light) or fractional laser resurfacing. More intense than LED, the laser energy is absorbed by pigmented cells causing them to break down and naturally be eliminated by the body although laser therapy is not suitable for everyone and all skin types. The treatments can also be expensive too and regular maintenance and follow-up treatments may be needed to sustain the results.
What are the best products for uneven skin tone?
When it comes to off-the-shelf go-to’s Dr Jason recommends La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C which contains 10% ascorbic acid as well as salicylic acid and hyaluronic acid and is well tolerated by sensitive skin; The Inkey List 10% azelaic acid serum and The Ordinary’s Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%. He also flags online dermatology services such as Skin + Me and Dermatica as a good place to seek advice as they offer medical consultations to determine what’s causing your uneven skin tone.
Alongside your bathroom cabinet solutions, lifestyle choices can also assist in maintaining a smooth and even skin surface. Keeping hydrated, not smoking and consuming a diet rich in healthy fats and protein can help provide the nutrients your skin needs to stay healthy. That and a daily dose of SPF will at least go some way in preventing your complexion looking dull and uneven.
