SPF is a skincare priority. Here's how to find the ultimate sun protection for your skin (and your hair) this heatwave

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CODY CHRISTIAN

With temperatures showing no signs of cooling, it's time to slather on the SPF just like you would on holiday - and yes, that includes under your makeup and even on your hair.

One of the biggest beauty blunders that many of us make every day is not wearing SPF every single day. It might sound over the top but ask any celebrity or dermatologist and they'll tell you we should all wear face sun screen all year round, but it's especially important during the summer months when the weather is hottest and we're all spending more time outside. 

Ideally, we should plump for factor 50 on our faces every damn day to protect our precious skin from the harmful UV rays. As aesthetics surgeon Dr Paul Nassif explains: "Did you know the sun is responsible for up to 90% of ageing skin? UVA rays reach the deeper layers of the skin, damaging collagen and elastin, and causing sun spots, pigmentation, and premature ageing. Using an SPF daily (even in the winter) can help shield your skin against the sun’s harmful rays." 

He also suggests adding a Vitamin C serum into the mix because it is effective at inhibiting tyrosinase to decrease melanin production, so by using it alongside a daily SPF, you can boost your SPF's efficacy, which means you're even less likely to experience signs of premature ageing.

But we get it, we know you're busy and have a million other steps in your skincare regime. Plus, many people skip SPF because it messes with our skin, either causing blocked pores and oiliness, or else leaving a chalky finish. To help you find the right product to suit your exact skin type and tone, we've spoken to the experts to bring for their ultimate advice for choosing the ideal SPF for you.

David Burton
What exactly is SPF?

SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor. It measures the level of protection a product will give you from UVB, which is one type of ultraviolette (UV) rays that is emitted by the sun. The British Association of Dermatologists recommend always using a minimum of SPF 30, which blocks 97% of UVB. To put that into context, SPF 15 blocks 93% and SPF 50 blocks 98%.

So, are there different types of UV rays?

Yes, the sun emits two different types of ultraviolet radiation that reach the Earth's surface: UVA and UVB. The former penetrates deep into the skin, while UVB rays are shorter, burning the surface of skin. 

There's also UVC, which is the highest energy, but these rays are stopping by the Ozone layer. 

How much damage can UV rays really cause?

That deep tan you have today will cause long term skin damage. Sun damage shows itself in the form of dullness, deep set wrinkles, uneven pigmentation and loss of firmness. More importantly, sun damage also increases your risk of developing skin cancer.  

"Ultraviolet rays from the sun are extremely harmful to the skin and cause more than 90 per cent of the visible signs of ageing including wrinkles, sagging, rough patches and skin discolouration," confirms Dr Shirin Lakhani. Both UVA and UVB rays play a role in the development of skin cancer.

What's the best way to apply your SPF?

"Your sunscreen should be applied after your moisturiser and before your foundation," says Shirin. "Even if you are wearing makeup you still need to re-apply every two hours." It also needs to be applied correctly to be effective, so make sure you're using a decent amount. "Sunscreen should be applied before you leave home in the morning all year round," adds Dr Qian Xu. "Even on cloudy winter days."

Rex Features
Mineral or chemical?

We tend to use the term “SPF” to refer sunscreen in general, but SPF only protects you from UVB rays. To make sure your sunscreen protects you from both UVB and UVA, you'll need to look for the term “broad-spectrum” or the letters UVA on your product's packaging. 

Another consideration is whether you opt for a chemical or mineral sun screen. Mineral sun screens use the minerals zinc oxide or titanium oxide to provide UV protection. They sit on the skin surface to act as a physical barrier to prevent the UV rays penetrating. 

Chemical sunscreens are absorbed by the skin and convert UV rays into heat, which is then released by the skin. Some chemicals traditionally used in sunscreens (namely Oxybenzone and Octinoxate) have been flagged as potential hormone disruptors as well as harmful to the oceans, and therefore, many people choose to avoid them just in case. 

However, nearly all brands have eliminated these potentially harmful ingredients from their products. Other chemical filters are completely safe and provide incredible sun protection. Some safe chemical filters are isoamyl methoxycinnamate (1), butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane (2), ethylhexyl triazone (1), bis-ethylhexyoxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (1) and Uvinul A Plus.

While there's much debate over which one is better, and both mineral and chemical have their benefits (for example, mineral sunscreens start acting straight away, but can leave a white cast, while chemical takes 20 minutes to start working and are less likely to leave a cast), the most important thing is that your sun screen offers broad-spectrum, high level protection and is a pleasure to wear every single day. 

Here's some advice on what to look out for, just in time for your summer holiday...

OILY SKIN

Is oil-free the solution for oily skin? Amanda Von Dem Hagen, Lead Developer at Glo Skin Beauty says definitely, recommending to go for a lightweight moisturiser with SPF instead.

"Many sunscreens that offer a high SPF factor tend to be a lot thicker on the skin, leaving it feeling sticky and oily, and in turn promoting further skin issues such as blocked pores and blackheads."

Julie Morris, Aesthetic Nurse Practitioner, Effortless Skin, agrees, saying oil-free sunscreen is best if you don't want your skin to feel greasy or congested.

"Thick creams can feel uncomfortable on the face when worn all day, especially in the heat on holiday, so opt for lightweight creams, gels, fluids, lotions and mineral powders instead", she says.

Dr Daniel Glass from the Dermatology Clinic London says to also be sure you're using a suncream that's "formulated for the face and neck" and to "choose a sunscreen gel (instead of a cream-lotion) for the body".

We love Olay Regenerist Whip Day Face Cream SPF30, which protects skin against harmful UV rays, and actively hydrates and plumps without ever leaving a greasy or sticky feeling. Upon application, the revolutionary cream transforms to a liquid for fast absorption and a breathable feel, leaving a smooth, matte and shine-free finish making it perfect for oily skin types. Plus, it's packed with niacinamide (vitamin B3), which is known to help reduce excess oil and breakouts, and peptides for ultimate skin pampering. 

Olay Regenerist Whip Day Face Cream SPF30 Face Cream

BLEMISHED & SENSITIVE SKIN

When it comes to blemished, acne-prone or sensitive skin, keep an eye on the ingredient list.

"There are two types of agents used in sunscreen: physical and chemical. Some of the chemical agents used in sunscreens cause irritation", says Dr Daniel Glass. "Benzophenones are probably the most common culprits, but there are other chemicals that may even cross-react with sunlight to cause a skin reaction."

Keep it simple and avoid extra unnecessary ingredients like fragrances and preservatives. Heavy oils and shea butters are a no-no.

"Alcohol can also dry out and irritate skin, so try and opt for non-comedogenic and alcohol-free creams," says Dr Yannis Alexandrides, Founder Of 111SKIN And Head Of Surgical Practice At 111 Harley St.

It's also important to be as gentle as possible when applying you suncream, as to not further irritate your skin. "Apply it just like your moisturiser; gently smooth and massage it all over the skin, taking care not to rub or massage the skin too aggressively," says Julie.

"For highly sensitive skin, try a mineral powder sunscreen. These are easy to dust onto the skin, cause little to no irritation and feel weightless, so they won’t make your skin feel heavy and overwhelmed with product."

Try Bioderma Photoderm Anti-Blemish Sunscreen SPF30 for a high protection sun lotion that's certified to be non-comedogenic, meaning it won't block pores. 

Bioderma Photoderm Anti-Blemish Sunscreen SPF30

DRY SKIN

Dry skin sufferers, you're in luck, because SPF serums are now a thing and there are already loads of hydrating moisturisers with SPF built in.

Amanda is 100 percent on board, saying "opt for a lightweight SPF which doubles as a moisturising face cream [or serum]. This way you are protecting your skin, whilst also reaping other skincare benefits", says Amanda. "You can opt for a dry oil SPF [but] a cream or lotion-based SPF is advisable, especially if you want the product to last all day," she says.

One of our favourites is Ultra Violette Supreme Screen Hydrating Facial Skinscreen SPF 50+, which is packed with vitamin C from Kakadu plum and a powerful peptide to keep skin feeling bouncy.

Ultra Violette Supreme Screen Hydrating Facial Skinscreen SPF 50+

DARK SKIN AND BLACK SKIN

One of the biggest issues with SPF for darker skin tones is a tendency for some products to leave a white, chalky finish. However, there are many sun protection for black and dark skin, which promise not to leave the dreaded white cast, and can be enjoyed by all skin tones for total protection.

However, according to Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, medical director of Adonia Medical Clinic and a NHS medical consultant in Acute Medicine, the white cast isn't always something to be avoided. Speaking at Black Skin Decoded, a virtual event dedicated to black beauty hosted by Black Skin Directory and GLAMOUR, she said "Don't be afraid of the cast - especially if you're going to wear makeup over the top." Noted!

Try Supergoop! Unseen Screen for a universally flattering sunscreen that never leaves a white cast.

Supergoop! Unseen Screen

HAIR PROTECTION

It's not just our skin that needs protecting from the sun, our hair also requires a shield of sorts to keep it shiny and hydrated. The sun is also a big culprit for colour-fade, so unless you want your lengths to lighten and become dull, you'll want to spritz some sun protection formulated for hair.

25 best sunscreens and sun creams to shield your skin from harmful UV rays
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