So many of us have a damaged skin barrier and you've likely never even heard of it. The first point of contact when it comes to environmental stressors and the place hormonal disharmony appears, it's also the area that's most at risk from the side effects of overusing skincare products and applying too many active ingredients. It's why brands are working hard at creating formulas that soothe, rebalance and aid inflamed skin barriers.
“Almost every day in my clinic, I see patients who are potentially damaging their skin barrier with products that were never designed for them," says Dr Hugh Lyford, who works with Coats skincare. "I get it – we’re all constantly bombarded with trending products and they all sound great, but in reality, a lot of products are designed for skin with specific concerns, and these can end up doing more harm than good on skin that’s healthy. The key is to use products that are dermatologically tested and clinically proven to protect the skin barrier."
But the burning question: how do you know if your skin barrier is damaged? And what can you do about it? We put all our questions to the derms to find out…
Firstly, what exactly is the skin barrier?
“The skin barrier is the outer layer of skin that is responsible for maintaining hydration and protecting us from irritants, allergens, infection and pollution,” shares Dr. Justine Hextall, Consultant Dermatologist for La Roche-Posay. “A robust skin barrier is the cornerstone of skin health in my view. Always look for products that are going to support a healthy skin barrier and you will be on the front foot with skin care,” she adds.
“Known as the stratum corneum, it consists of lipids, natural moisturising factors and skin cells that work together to protect the skin,” explains Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme. Acting like border control by keeping the good stuff like moisture and oil in and blocking the bad stuff such as skin aggressors out, it is fundamental in the skin's microbiome and innate moisture system. “It absorbs and maintains moisture by preventing trans-epidermal water loss and ensures skin is not stripped of its essential moisture which can lead to dry dehydrated skin, and breakouts,” adds Dr Emma Amoafo-Mensah.
Skincare routine steps, order and products.
Ben Esdaile, Consultant Dermatologist for Skin + Me explains that an intact skin barrier is like a brick wall held tightly together with cement. “When the skin barrier is damaged, the brick wall cement does not work properly and the skin tends to lose water easily and the skin is more vulnerable to external irritants,” he adds. If this barrier becomes damaged or compromised, the = outer layer of skin starts to look dull, rough and dry; it can be more easily irritated and sensitive.
How do you know if you have a damaged skin barrier?
“Symptoms may include redness, irritation, sensitivity, increased dryness and a compromised ability to retain moisture,” explains skin and wellness expert, Marie Reynolds. Eczema, psoriasis and breakouts are also signals that your skin barrier is vulnerable and not performing at it's peak.
How do I fix a damaged skin barrier?
First things first, adopt a simple skincare routine. “I recommend stripping your skincare back, rather than layering on more,” says Dr Hextall. “Keep it simple and use something like the La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5+, which has been shown to improve the skin barrier within an hour of application.”
A simple routine will constitute ‘gentle cleansing, toning and moisturising’ with the addition of skin ingredients such as ceramides, niacinamide, glycerin, vitamins and squalane which help nourish and support the skin barrier.
Avoiding harsh or irritating ingredients will also speed up repair. “Alcohol, fragrances and strong acids such as glycolic acid and salicylic acid can disrupt the skin barrier and cause further damage,” continues Dr Ifeoma.
How long does it take for your skin barrier to heal?
The time it takes for your skin barrier to heal will differ depending on your skin type and damage. “This can be two weeks for some people (provided the root cause has been found) stretching up to around six months,” says Dr Hextall, adding that sometimes the culprit can simply be a facial soap or using too many actives whereby the recovery will then be quick.
Which ingredients are best for skin barrier damage?
Dr Hextall recommends Vitamin B5 (panthenol). “It attracts and holds water in the skin and has an emollient benefit making the skin smooth and supple; It is these features that make it a perfect ingredient to support and strengthen the skin barrier therefore all of these benefits work extremely well for a dry, irritated compromised skin barrier.”
Meanwhile, Dr Esdaile agrees that hydrating ingredients are ideal to support and boost the skin barrier. “The best way to repair a damaged skin barrier is to try and rehydrate the skin to restore the barrier function,” he says. “Using hydrating moisturisers including Hyaluronic acid, Shea butter, ceramides and glycerin alongside a simple skincare regimen that does not cause further damage (ie. avoiding harsh cleansers and irritants).”
Niacinamide is also flagged up by the pros. “It enhances hydration, is soothing and repairs the barrier. Topical products with antioxidants and anti-inflammatory agents also act as a support system,” adds Marie.
Are some skin types more vulnerable to skin barrier damage?
“Individuals with naturally dry or sensitive skin types are generally more susceptible to skin barrier damage. However, anyone can experience a compromised skin barrier due to external factors or improper skincare practices,” says Dr Ifeoma.
“The skin barrier tends to weaken with age too, leading to reduced moisture retention and increased vulnerability to external stressors. This results in redness, irritation, dryness and sensitivity," says Marie.
Signs of a damaged skin barrier
Concerned your skin barrier may be damaged? Here are the five tell-tale signs:
- Dry, dehydrated, dull skin is one of the most common signs of a damaged skin barrier. Your skin absorbs and maintains moisture by preventing trans-epidermal water loss, which is dehydration of the skin. Try to avoid fluctuations in humidity, especially in Winter by protecting your skin with skincare that contains humectants, emollients and moisturisers such as glycerin, ceramides and squalane.
- If your skin feels sore or stings when you apply even a gentle product or even water to your skin, it’s probable that you’ve over stripped your skin, too much mechanical or chemical exfoliation and overly hot water can leave the new layers of skin exposed and feeling sensitive. Dial back on exfoliation and give your skin time to recover, once a week exfoliation with a gentler exfoliant such as mandelic acid is enough to keep your skin glowing without damage.
- Breakouts and redness are a sign that your protective acid mantle has been compromised so you may have been using products that are too acid or too alkaline which removes the protective sebum layer. Choosing products that are pH balanced to skin will help prevent breakouts and inflammation.
- Sensitivity and itching can occur if the skin microbiome becomes unbalanced so that irritants from for example pollution or smoking can more easily enter the skin. Protect your skin with antioxidants such as Vitamin C and Vitamin E in your skincare.
- Fine lines becoming more noticeable and hyperpigmentation are also typical signs of a damaged skin barrier. This may be caused by UV exposure so it's important to wear sunscreen every day, even in winter.
Best skin-barrier-protecting routine
If you nodded your way through the previous five points, then here are the essentials of a skin-barrier-protecting routine to rectify your skincare mistakes:
- A simple cleanser that helps the skin barrier to retain natural moisture levels and doesn’t strip the skin. Cleansers that have a blend of gentle surfactants and emollients (hydrating ingredients) will help to lift impurities whilst protecting and replenishing the skin’s natural moisture levels, keeping it hydrated, healthier and less prone to breakouts.
- An alcohol-free toner, that gently exfoliates without stripping the skin’s moisture, to prevent the build up of dead skin cells and excess sebum that may congest the skin and cause breakouts. Hydrating toners with a blend of gentle exfoliators and emollients will help to decongest the skin, whilst protecting and boosting the skin’s moisture barrier.
- A lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturiser that will deeply hydrate the skin to replenish the skin barrier whilst but without congesting the skin. As young skin is typically a little bit oilier, opting for an oil free moisturiser can help prevent breakouts.
- A comfortable, non-comedogenic SPF that you will use daily. Completing your skincare routine with SPF is key to ensure that you protect the skin from environmental aggressors, such as pollution, free radicals and UVA/UVB rays that can damage the skin.
There are now a ton of skincare formulas designed for skin barrier damage. The Coats ‘Essentials’ range is centred around a simple 3 step routine to keep combination and dry skin healthy. Meanwhile, you'll find myriad skincare formulations for barrier repair, from The Nue Co's Barrier Culture Cleanser to Rhode's much-hyped Barrier Restore Cream.
“Keeping skin healthy doesn’t require a complicated multi-step routine," maintains Dr Hugh Lyford. “Ideally, a skincare routine for healthy skin should consist of a gentle cleaner to remove dirt and sebum, a toning milk to gently exfoliate and reveal healthy skin, and a multi-hydration moisturiser to keep skin hydrated all day. A broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 should be added as the final step during the day."
Whether you're searching for ways to repair the damage already done or support your skin barrier function, the answer lies in simplicity and consistency.
