Knotless braids have unapologetically dominated the natural hair community as the go-to hairstyle of choice and we can see why. As we know, textured hair is as complex as it is beautiful and I say ‘complex’ in the most endearing and spellbinding way. That's why protective hairstyles have been around for generations upon generations and can even be traced back to 30,000 years ago. Alongside looking delicately intricate, they allow those precious kinks and coils to be braided safely away from daily manipulation, breakage and split ends.
However, as reliable as braids, tight cornrows and locs can be, some experts have warned us the strain that certain styles can place on hair follicles and the tension they can place on scalps. In fact, Eleanor Richardson, who is a consultant trichologist at the Fulham Scalp & Hair Clinic warns us against the dangers of choosing to braid: “The most common damage that we end up seeing in the clinic is traction. So that's a pulling force that's been applied, because of a very tight style. Maybe due to very chunky braids, extensions, or weave-in and styles that have been there for a while...”
The styles that are gentle on your hair but still keep you looking cute.
Now, saying that, like me, letting go of braids is not really an option. After all, they're an inextricable part of Black culture and they will always play main character when it comes to natural hair styling. However, there are gentler alternatives to the classic box braids, and they have been shaking the aunties-that-do-hair to the core.
Knotless braids have been the moment for a while and are still very much the moment now. Considered by many to be 'low-tension', the style has developed a league of A-list followers including Beyonce, Zendaya, Yara Shahidi, and Laura Harrier.
We spoke to braid queen and celebrity hairstylist, Molecia George, whose clients include Leigh-Anne Pinnock, Katerina Johnson Thompson, and Jourdan Dunn. Here she explains everything you need to know about knotless braids.
What are knotless braids?
“Knotless braids are exactly what they’re called – braids without knots,” says Molecia. “Traditional box braids have a knot at the start where the extension is added at the beginning,” she explains. “Knotless is where the braid is started off with your hair and then you feed the extension through as you go along, creating a knotless look. It’s a trendier way of doing braids for clients who don’t like the knot look at the beginning of the braids. It’s a very sleek and natural-looking way of braiding.”
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Why would you choose knotless braids over traditional box braids?
"As a braider, both ways of braiding have pros and cons," says Molecia, but here are the benefits of knotless braids:
- Knotless braids are gentler: Knotless braids are perfect for clients with sensitive scalps as there is little to no tension. This can help prevent traction alopecia and supports healthier scalps and hair retention.
- They enable you to style immediately: Unlike traditional styles which can take a day or two to loosen up, this style is perfect to put in a bun and style straight away
- They do last a relatively long time: Depending on how quick your hair growth is, they can last for a long time – up to eight-to-ten weeks.
- Knotless braids are trendier: In terms of style, knotless braids are definitely trendier, literally give you neater braids.
- They enable you to care for your scalp more easily: This style makes it easier to access and to moisturise your scalp.
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Are there any downsides to knotless braids?
"In my opinion, if you have fast hair growth, knotless braids won’t last as long on you." Molecia also says that they take longer to install too. “With me, traditional box braids can take me four-to-five hours tops, depending on how big or small you want the width and also the length. Knotless will take me an extra hour or two depending on the size and what length you like it, but the benefit is they'll be kinder to your hair and scalp while you wear them.” she adds.
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How to prep for knotless braids?
"I always tell my clients to make sure their hair is washed and to do a deep treatment before doing any sort of protective style, especially knotless," says Molecia. "It’s also a good idea to blow-dry your hair before getting knotless braids, as this will make the braids a lot neater and help them to last longer. Lastly, make sure hair is feathered or pulled at the ends and then put the hair out so it’s easier to braid as you go."
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What will I need to take to my braid lady?
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These blonde knotless braids are trendy yet timeless and can be used for both blonde hair or to give a highlighted look on dark fros.
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There is nothing like bussdown 30' inch poker straight braids. Simply timeless.
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Curl the ends of your braids for that Coi Lerai vibe. Leave out strips that are also curled for that goddess braiding effect.
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Why not spice your knotless braids with a mix of blonde braid hair weaved in for a balayage effect. Or you can use any colour you like. You can also purchase ready dip dyed hair too.
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Cut the front few braids to create a strip bangs effect. Works best if you have thin braids with a wavy hair leave-out.
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These braids look effortlessly made and look perfectly imperfect. This means that there is no need for maximum precision as each parting has its own shape.
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Want a neat up-do full of texture? Why not try this knotless braids and pair it with a thick braid extension rolled into a chic up do.
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This style involves red or auburn hair that is braided half way and styled in a water wave finish. Ideal for the girls that want length, but don't want to go the wig or weave route.
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There is nothing mid about these medium sized braids. In fact they're pretty top tier. They're structure and chic and can be styled in many different ways.
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Micro braids may take time but you can clearly see why they're worth it. It gives the illusion of real hair and allows room for movement and flow throughout the hair.
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Knotless goddess braids are special due to the curly strands of hair that are pulled out to give dimension to the braids with an extra added layer of textures.
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Keep the braids loose and slick down baby hairs for that polished finish. Add stick-on hair gems to the hairline to amp up the edges art.
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Knotless crochet locs are just faux locs that you crochet into the root of your twist / braid without the knots. Same results but a more gentle technique which also makes removal easier.
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Sometimes when it comes to Black girls and hair, more is more. XXL hair has been dominating summer trends and trickling into party season. Knotless down to your knee caps are the done thing. I mean just look at them?
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Think of chunky highlights but instead of colour you have mini knotless braids. It gives an alternative spin to the boho braids and we are so obcessed.
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This braid parting technique requires a little more skill and a good eye and a steady hand, however the result is a symmetrical dream. It makes the braids look neat and it's so pleasant to look at.
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These knotless bohos are soft braids that can be manipulated into fun updos and have a mix of textures in the style, with straight and soft waves for that true unstructured boho feel.
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Knotless twistouts are a very gentle alternative to this two-strand braid style. They look natural, soft and neat and as far as braids go, they're can be done relatively fast.
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These curly ended braids have the braids tribe in ropes, and we see why. They just add a spin to your everyday knotless and are so cute. They can be achieved simply using hot water and a rod of sorts.
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We often see a long braided bob this one comes in the form of goddess braids and has lots of volume on the bottom.
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Heart-shaped partings are an adorable new trend for people opting for chunky knotless braids. You can also mix colours to add more dimension to the final look and to draw attention to the roots.
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Less sometimes is more. These knotless box braids are thick, but not quite jumbo, and they look modern and fun.
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Want to do cornrows but with a twist? Try incorporating some thread braids to add different textures to the look.
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Baby hairs laid, a top knot with loose strands with a waterfall effect, blonde highlights, it's everything for us.
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This might not be the most wearable knotless look, but it's alternative, edgy and cool.
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Jumbo cornrows will always be timeless and cool.
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These thin head locs give a knotless root illusion and it makes them look natural and neat.
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Micro braids down to your knees are all the craze. They may not be the most practical, nor the quickest to achieve (and remove heavy sigh) but look how cute they look. Worth every inch and every minute.
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Want a tousled bun, but have braids? How about merging both. Keep the braids medium to small in thickness and have bits of hair (human hair preferably for durability) out and pulled throughout a few of the braids for that boho effect.
For more from Glamour UK Beauty Writer Shei Mamona, follow her on Instagram @sheimamona