How to nail a smokey eye makeup like the pros with this step-by-step guide
Smokey eye makeup sounds simple in principle, but can be pretty elusive in practice. That's because there is such a thing as too much smoke (I know, we didn't think it was possible either).
After all, smokey eyes are supposed to be the rebellious, rock 'n' roll alternative to meticulously clean-girl makeup. But, there's a delicate balance to be struck between looking “sexily dishevelled” and just plain, WTF? So it's pretty understandable that over 21 million of us have typed in “how to do a smokey eye?” on Google recently.
What is a smokey eye?
First things first, what makes smokey eye makeup? Effectively, it's a blended or diffused eyeshadow rather than one block colour which a) creates dimension and b) looks downright hot. You can use one shade and smoke it out at the edges, but usually, you'll build up layers with different shades and textures. In his video tutorial on metallic smokey eyes, celebrity makeup artist and King of the smokey eye, Hung Vanngo explained “all the layers create so much dimension. You may wonder 'why do I need to do a pencil first and then the shadow, and then another shadow?' But it's for the depth that you create. It shows through in the pictures you take and it's beautiful. Basically, you craft a gradient from really dark and fade it out.”
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We asked Bobbi Brown's Global Pro Artist, Amy Conway for a smokey eye step-by-step, complete with her top tips for getting it right. The clincher? Blending (lots and lots of blending).
3 things to know before starting your smokey eye makeup
- The key is to always keep the darkest point at the lash line. It keeps the makeup really modern and fresh, and ensures you are drawing more attention to the eye vs the makeup.
- Keep it simple. Stick to no more than 3 shadows and a liner to make your eyes pop.
- Blend is your friend. Brushes are super important to get that blend. When it comes to a smokey eye, it doesn't matter how dark you go, or what colours you use, it's how well you can blend the liner and shadow. That's what gives it that sultry look.
Try these eyeshadow brushes:
Try these eyeshadow palettes:
How do you do smokey eye makeup?
- Start by applying a mid-tone eyeshadow all over the lid. Opt for greys, browns or heathers to create a subtle smokey base.
- Apply a liner along the lash line, making sure you're coating and depositing colour between the lashes to instantly enhance the eye. Choose a gel or glide-on formula like Urban Decay's 24/7 Glide On Eye Pencil, £18, Look Fantastic, for easy application. Just make sure you smoke it out with an eyeshadow brush before it sets, because once it does, it won't budge all night.
- Layer a dark-toned shadow like espresso, charcoal or smoke over the liner, blending halfway up the lid and into the lid shadow. Apply along the lower lash line by softly pressing the brush onto the root of the lower lashes. Then smudge out with fingers for a smokier finish.
- Add those all-important final touches with a mascara, like the Bobbi Brown Smokey Eye Mascara, layering three to four coats for a full lash effect.
- Finally, you can add a sparkle shadow with your finger to give it that real luxe finish. It's great for smoothing out the lid and giving that blend through the crease of the eye.
Sound too hard? There's a cheat's way too...
“A long-wear cream shadow and a long-wear gel eyeliner blended together is a quick and simple way to create a smokey eye with minimal products”, Amy says.
Simply apply the shadow all over the lid, blending it over and over towards the outer corner for the smokey effect. Then apply the gel eyeliner along the bottom lid and lash line, smudging it with a small eye brush.
If you want an intense evening smokey eye, Amy recommends using a dark cream shadow, or for a soft, daytime alternative, she recommends a shimmer cream shadow.
Not all smokey eye makeup is the same. Here's all the different ways worn by celebs…
Subtle Negative space
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Get the illusion of a negative space finish by elongating the darker eyeshadow along the cut crease so that the smokey-ness contours the lid. Laura Harrier makes a great case for it.
Olive toned smoke
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Use colour theory to work with hues on your smokey eyeshadow that compliment you hair. Bebe Rexa went for a fiery red hair that amps up her smokey eye makeup, giving it an olive looking reflection on the eyeshadow. So cute.
Coffee smoke
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Like Simone Ashley, opt for light brown and coffee shades for a more natural take on smokey eye makeup.
Rosé smoke
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Want more drama? Go for berries and reds. The right red can compliment dark eyes really well if applied correctly. Rosé in rose? Yes please.
Deep burned orange smoke
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Burned orange hues also bring out hazel eyes, so use it as a base for a pop of colour. Just look at Zoey Deutch – breathtaking.
Spotlight smokey eye
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To add this spotlight effect only had the darker shades of eyeshadow to the corners of the eyes. Don't forget the shimmer in the middle as seen on Brazilian pop star Anitta.
Latte smokey eye
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A smokey eye doesn't have to be dramatic. Keep the shades matte and close to one another for a bit of dimension and depth without going full smoke. Here is Hailey Bieber's take on latte makeup.
Berry Smoke
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Berry hues soften a smokey eye for that romantic date night eyeshadow finish. Opt for some sheer berry cloudy lips to seal the whole look together. Just look how cute Yara Shahidi looks.
Golden hour smoke
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There is nothing more timeless and universal as golden hour smokey eye makeup. Jas Tookes is proof. The sunset hues compliment any complexion perfectly, frames the face, adds dimension and brings attention to the eyes.
The pop of pink
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Why not add a pop of pink at the centre of the lid to brighten your smokey eye look, as seen on our Little Mermaid Halle Bailey.
Need more inspo? Keep scrolling:
Lashings of black liner, framed with soft, smoky shadow is best teamed with poker-straight hair pulled back off the face, as instructed by Shay Mitchell at the Revolve Awards.
Getty ImagesWoah Jenna! This look is really make us want to go out out tonight. The sultry eye-makeup really pops when paired with a glossy nude pout - take note gals.
Getty ImagesQueen of the feline flick Olivia Culpo decided to give her wing an edge, making her eye makeup a little darker and heavier then usual - looks perfect for a night out.
Rex FeaturesMaria Borges brought the house down with this beauty look at the VS Fashion Show viewing party. Her smoky eye was kept chic but intense - oh, and we love her new hair colour.
REXNaomi Campbell can give you a masterclass on smoky eyes. The super chose this bronze-hued makeup for an event, but her badass faux nose piercing stole the show.
Rex FeaturesWith her hair swept-back, Winnie's dark eye makeup took centre stage. The bronze-hued glittery eyes were complimented by sleek brows and a glossy pout.
Rex FeaturesWoah! Georgia May Jagger looks absolutely stunning in dark makeup. Changing her signature red pout for black eyeshadow backstage of the Tommy Hilfiger Fall 2017 show, she was ready to strut and stun on the catwalk.
Getty ImagesKeira is the queen of a good smoky eye and we love this one, simple and sophisticated.
Getty ImagesJenna's gorgeous dark eyes are immediately softened by dewy, glowing skin and a nude lip, providing a strong femininity in this winning red carpet moment.
Jennifer Connelly proves that a smoky eye doesn't have to be all out. We love her subtle silver accents - they really frame the eye, don't you think?
Getty ImagesHailee Steinfeld looks incredible with these dark shades, as they really make her brown eyes pop.
How gorgeous is Olivia Palermo's bronze smoky eye? This is a great way to rock the trend subtly.
Getty ImagesJulianne Hough had a gorgeous glow recently, which she paired with some pretty smoky eyes and a nude glossy lip.
Rex FeaturesDemi Lovato looked like a total Goddess at a red carpet event recently. Just check out those stunning smoky eyes and nude/brown pout...
Getty ImagesChanel Iman showed off her smoky eye skills recently. We particularly love this blended-out, kohl-lined look she is coveting.
GettyAnother star to rock a blue smoky eye, Alessandra Ambrosio looked sultry and sassy at the 2016 GRAMMY awards.
Getty ImagesNicole Richie is the master of smoky eyeshadow. She loves to rock a shimmering metallic look, and pares down the makeup with a subtle lip.
Getty ImagesGuess what? There are more ways than one to wear a gorgeously dark smoky eye. Lily Rose Depp's metallic blue makeup offers a new take on a classic eyeshadow trend.
GettyAt the Golden Globes Awards 2016, Kate Hudson rocked a subtle but pretty bronze smoky eye and finished her look with some nude glossy lips.
GettyKirsten Dunst looked stunning at the Golden Globes 2016. We love her subtle rose-hued nude lip and dark smoked out eyes.
Getty ImagesGame of Thrones star Natalie Dormer combined her pretty sparkling smoky eyes with nude lips and some glossy blonde curls.
Getty ImagesJenna Dewan was all about the rimmed, smoky eyes at the Hollywood Film Awards. Doesn't the kohl make her eyes pop?
Getty ImagesSandra Bullock rocked a gorgeous updo at the Our Brand is Crisis premiere, and combined her hairstyle with subtle smoky makeup, complete with kohl-lined eyes.
Getty ImagesKate Hudson looked fantastic at the 2015 GLAMOUR awards with her hair piled high and her eyes prettified with gold shimmering shadow.
Getty ImagesMila Kunis's favourite makeup look has to be the smoky eye, which looks great alongside a nude glossy lip and minimalistic face makeup.
Getty ImagesSinger Taylor Swift also loves a classic smoky eye, especially in more subtle brown and bronze tones.
Getty ImagesGigi Hadid sure suits large lashes and bronzey-brown smoky hues. The stunning model paired her dark eyes with a glossy nude lip.
Rex FeaturesWe'd be smiling too if our eye makeup was as incredible as Jennifer Lopez's.
Getty ImagesMad Men star Kiernan Shipka tied her hair up to fully show off her gorgeous smoky eyes. The star paired her makeup with a rosy lip... and totally pulled it off.
PA PhotosSandra Bullock's gorgeous navy dress matches her blue-lined eyes.
Rex FeaturesKate Hudson often rocks a flawless feline flick with blended eyeshadow shades.
Getty ImagesAmber Heard experimented with cranberry tones on her eyes recently and managed to pull off the look with ease.
RexDakota Johnson goes all goth on us by lining her eyes with dark kohl pencil.
GettyJLaw has got smoky eyes DOWN. The hilarious actress sported bronze eyes and glossy nude lips like a pro. Can we have your makeup artists phone number, Jen?
GettyThe rule is to keep lips bare when you opt for a darker eye. But somehow, Natasha Poly manages to make both work in one go. We adore the unique take on a cat's eye here.
RexOlivia Palermo combines her poker
straight locks with silvery-black eyeshadow... and it works.
