Kicking off Paris Fashion Week in traditional style this season, Dior once again took over its favourite venue show space at the Jardin des Tuileries and welcomed travelling editors, buyers and stylists to the final leg of the biannual four-city fashion month tour.
Of course, there was also the slew of high-profile attendees, greeted by a snaking queue of fans who had waited for hours in the rain to catch a glimpse – and, of course, a picture – of the likes of Emma Raducanu, Elle MacPherson, Iris Law, Rosamund Pike, Celeste, Natalie Portman, Chiara Ferragni, and Jisoo.
But that was all outside the venue. What went on inside was even more Insta-worthy, as Maria Grazia Chiuri showcased her spring/summer 2023 vision for Dior. And the omnipresent influence of those social-savvy fans outside was palpable, with a Y2K-spin on the Renaissance aesthetic running throughout.
Bursting with references to the era's sartorial staples, Chiuri took a look at the past through the lens of French-Italian noblewoman Catherine de Medici, who was latterly the Queen of France – thanks to her marriage to King Henry II – and whose influence on fashion was undeniable.
“Maria is fascinated by [Catherine de Medici]'s political intelligence”, read the show notes, “and the innovations she pioneered, such as heeled shoes, the corset, and Burano lace”.
The collection, however, was by no means exclusively retrospective, with Chiuri putting her much-loved, forward-thinking spin on historical references.
Corsets were paired with low-slung cargo pants that wouldn't look out of place on the very chicest TikTok influencers, while heavily structured dresses felt super contemporary thanks to super sheer fabric detailing and bowed waist-ties.
What will truly thrill the brand's many Gen Z and millennial fans, though, is its refreshing take on florals.
Moving the collection into regency-core territory, there were florals splashed across cargo pants and throughout lace-trimmed shirt dresses worn open from the waist down and paired with matching shorts.
This was a collection full of rich nostalgic references made relevant for Chiuri's contemporary shopper… and one which looks set to be all over every platform the minute spring hits. We're counting down the days already.
For more from Glamour UK's Fashion Editor Charlie Teather, follow her on Instagram @charlieteather.
